Hot Sun Cold Water: Rafting the Grand Canyon

Rafting the Grand Canyon - photo by JoAnn Sturman

Scott Sturman


“Whoa, this water is freezing!” – Sean Sturman August 2005

Of the five million annual visitors to Grand Canyon National Park only a small percentage leave the rim to enter the canyon. Fewer yet experience the park while rafting the Colorado River. When is the right time to go? What is the best part of the river to raft for a visitor with limited time? What are my chances of returning home alive?

I have floated through the Grand Canyon three times – all on thirty-five foot long motorized rafts operated by Diamond River Adventures of Page, Arizona.  The first trip in 1977 encompassed all 225 miles from Lee's Ferry near Glenn Canyon Dam to Diamond Creek. I returned in 2005 with my wife and two teenagers to float the upper 87 mile portion and then again in 2008 with a group of twenty-two middle aged adults to explore the 138 mile lower segment.

Each of the canyon's forty layers of rock from the 1.75 billion years old schist to the limestone and sandstone strata represent millions of years. The vivid colors and intricate patterns of rocks sculpted by wind and water remind the viewer of our fleeting existence on the stage. If nothing else, witnessing the Grand Canyon from its depths reinforces the claim that we should define our priorities and make the best of it while we can .

When Glenn Canyon Dam was completed in 1964, the flow of the Colorado River changed dramatically. The seasonal flooding and silting were eliminated, and the temperature of the water flowing through the canyon transformed marine life in the river. Prior to the dam being built, the flow rate and temperature of the Colorado varied throughout the year, and during late summer the water temperature approached 80 degrees in certain portions of the river. Now all the water volume pouring into the canyon is controlled and emanates from the bottom of Glenn Canyon Dam. The average water temperature is 47 degrees and little warming occurs as it transits the Grand Canyon. Rainbow trout love it, but the native fish are not so enthralled.

Riding in the front of the raft, also known as the bathtub, offers an exciting but very wet ride. When shooting a rapid, the bow plunges beneath the waves and the passengers are inundated by a wall of water, but surprisingly those sitting in the back of the raft scarcely receive a splash. At the level of the Colorado River the canyon is narrow and even in mid day shadows can cover much of the river. Rain suits are helpful to stay dry, but nothing generates more comfort than the 100 degree Arizona sunshine. To take advantage of the natural heat, it is best to float from June to the middle of July when it is hot but before the summer monsoons arrive. During monsoon season from mid July through August, the sky can become cloudy in the afternoon bringing unwelcome shade and rain. When arranging a trip two years ago for a group of friends, I selected a week in early July to avoid weather that would interfere with blue skies. “You have nothing to worry about,” I said. “It never rains this time of year in Arizona.” We enjoyed ourselves immensely, but it rained four of the five days on the river.

The rafts used to float the Colorado River are stable and safe. Each is large enough to hold two crew members, fourteen customers, and all the provisions needed for nine days. Rapids constitute only 10% of the river in the Grand Canyon, and since much of the water is slow moving, an outboard motor on the raft adds pace in calm areas between fast moving water. Rapids in the canyon are graded on their own 1-10 scale, but using the traditional system there are plenty of class 4 and class 5 rapids.

Wild times were the order of the day on rafting trips in the 1970's. Passengers were allowed to straddle the outer pontoons of the rafts when negotiating the rapids – much like a bare back bronc rider without stirrups. The position enhanced the level of excitement, but it was not uncommon for ethanol fueled riders to end up in the water. Nowadays the outfitters require their clients to ride in the main portion of the raft during maneuvers through rough water.

Heavy drinking was more prevalent in the past. To prevent dehydration some companies supplied unlimited beer to all rafters. It was customary to begin hydration therapy soon after breakfast as soon as the rafts left the shore. The beer was kept in nets hooked to the rafts and immersed in the frigid Colorado River, so it was an easy matter to grab a cold one at any time. Patrons could also bring as much hard liquor as they wished for private consumption. One happy fellow, who often floated through the rapids without the raft, brought nine quarts of Jim Beam – one for each day of the trip. I still recall every midnight in camp when most of us were tucked away in our sleeping bags as his voice called out, “Nude calisthenics on the beach! Nude calisthenics on the beach in fifteen minutes.” Once the exercise enthusiasts assembled, we heard, “Fifty jumping jacks! Ready! One, two, ...” The sessions never lasted long as the giggling participants soon became distracted.

Presently, the atmosphere on the river remains festive but alcohol consumption is more measured. Since the rafting companies now encourage families to join them, customers are encouraged to have a good time without drinking themselves into oblivion. Diamond River provides free soft drinks and bottled water, but one can purchase a limited supply of beer and spirits from a liquor store in Page which delivers them to Diamond for the journey down the Colorado.

Rafting the canyon can be found on many bucket lists and is best enjoyed with a group of friends or relatives. The adventure is available to anyone from the age of eight. After the experience most participants will wonder why they waited so long to do it. It is fun, exciting, and the best geology course anyone could take.